The Metropolitan Museum of Art will spotlight the history and influence of Black Dandyism starting with its annual spring gala. The event celebrates the Costume Institute's exhibition, "Superfine: Tailoring Black Style," which examines this distinctive sartorial movement.
The exhibition, and the accompanying "Tailored for You" dress code for the gala, draw inspiration from Monica Miller’s book, “Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity.” Miller also serves as guest curator for the museum's show.
Dandyism in this context evolved beyond the style of figures like Beau Brummell, becoming a means of self-expression and identity for Black individuals across history.
During the trans-Atlantic slave trade, enslaved people in England were sometimes dressed in fine attire and collars as symbols of their owners' wealth. Despite lacking possessions upon arrival in America, enslaved individuals often added personal touches to clothing, particularly for Sunday services or holidays, creating distinction and a sense of remembrance.
The style movement gained prominence during the Harlem Renaissance, a period where Black Americans migrating to northern cities carved out new lives and cultural identities. Figures like W.E.B. Du Bois exemplified self-fashioning through precise tailoring, viewing dress as a way to assert presence and counter societal limitations.
A notable style to emerge was the zoot suit, characterized by its high-waisted, draped pants and oversized jackets. This look, embraced by Black, Mexican, and Filipino American men, used fabric in excess during wartime rationing, making its wear an act of visible distinction. Modern designers continue to reference the zoot suit's bold silhouette.
Dandyism was not limited by gender. Women during the Harlem Renaissance, such as blues singer Gladys Bentley with her tuxedos and top hats, adopted masculine styles. Contemporary figures like Janelle Monáe are known for incorporating tailored suits, large hats, and ornate accessories, personifying a modern take on the style.
Fashion icons like Dapper Dan and the late André Leon Talley are noted for their tailored approaches incorporating luxurious fabrics and bold elements. Attendees predicted for the Met Gala, including Tracee Ellis Ross, Tyla, and A$AP Rocky, are expected to showcase interpretations of tailored styles, some with dandy-inspired flair or patterns like plaid.
The exhibition and gala mark a moment of recognition for the cultural contributions of Black stylemakers.
Ev Bravado, co-founder of the fashion label Who Decides War, stated, “Black people, Black men are finally getting their flowers for being true style icons.”
